12 October 2006
06 October 2006
Poverty Lane “Farnum Hill” 2004 Kingston Black Cider “Reserve” (New Hampshire) – Striking raspberry and chalk with not-insignificant tannin. Minerality is cider is no less welcome than it is in wine. (10/06)
Apple: kingston black. Alcohol: 8.5%. Closure: cork. Web: http://www.farnumhillciders.com/.
Bott-Geyl 2002 Riesling “L’Exception Botrytis” (Alsace) – The strong palate impact of drying botrytis dominates this wine, and though there’s some obvious sweetness it’s a pretty well-balanced wine. There’s also iced peach skin, ripe (and slightly sweet) celery, and a long, candied/gingered orange finish sharpened by shattered crystalline acidity. It won’t be for everyone, though. (10/06)
Biodynamic. Grape(s): riesling. Alcohol: 13.5%. Closure: cork. Importer: Solomon/European Cellars. Web: http://www.bott-geyl.com/.
Leitz 2004 Rüdesheimer Klosterlay Riesling Kabinett 005 05 (Rheingau) – Big, sweet and fruity, with a steely banana core and sharp acidity underneath. Perhaps not so much of a kabinett, but a good, balanced wine with aging potential. (10/06)
Grape(s): riesling. Alcohol: 8%. Closure: cork. Importer: Theise/Skurnik. Web: http://www.leitz-wein.de/.
Bollig-Lehnert 2005 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Spätlese 05 06 (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) – Sulfur and mint with a faint spritz. Otherwise, it’s somewhat of a dead weight. (10/06)
Grape(s): riesling. Alcohol: 8.5%. Closure: cork. Importer: Carolina. Web: http://www.bollig-lehnert.de/.
Valckenberg 2004 Gewürztraminer 07 05 (Pfalz) – Roses with light peach and pear. Fragrant and medium-sweet. Gewurztraminer with training wheels. (10/06)
Grape(s): gewürztraminer. Alcohol: 11%. Closure: cork. Importer: Valckenberg. Web: http://www.valckenberg.com/.
04 October 2006
Goyard “Domaine de Roally” 1999 Mâcon-Village “Tradition” (Mâcon) – Mushroomy aged chardonnay through gauze. There’s a beige-toned minerality and lightly pleasant spice over a wet, fungal earth foundation, but everything is a little muted. Is the wine just closed, or is this the result of mild cork failure? In any case, it’s very nice, though probably not all it could be. (10/06)
Grape(s): chardonnay. Alcohol: 13%. Closure: cork. Importer: Louis/Dressner/LDM.
Sangenís “Celler Cal Pla” 2001 Priorat Porrera Blanco (Cataluña) – Almost shockingly bronze, and evidence that the cork was not a perfect physical seal points to the culprit. Still, there’s old wood spice and a mild motel iron structure to a fully mature blend of fermented flowers and extremely overripe peach residue. Though this description might not indicate so, it’s a good wine…though certainly not a great one. (10/06)
Grape(s): 40% macabeu, 30% garnatxa (grenache blanc), 30% moscatell. Alcohol: 13.5%. Closure: cork. Importer: European Cellars.