26 April 2006

Another dispatch from San Francisco

Delfina, a pulsing burst of energy in the Mission, gets almost everything right...and for not that much money. Unless you do what we did, that is, and order a Anselma 1993 Barolo Monforte (still a bargain at just under $100). Not a great Barolo by any standard, but a good one, showing rough-hewn tannin and dried rose petals with a tight, sharp core of sun-baked but acidic red cherries. With Delfina's meltingly delicious Tuscan pork ribs, it was a killer.

A word of advice, though: the buttermilk panna cotta with candied kumquats is disappointing.


Ken Sternberg said...

Yes! I know how maddening it is! Few places get the buttermilk panna cotta with candied kumquats right. It's a genuine dish of the people.

Thor Iverson said...

Aux barricades des kumquats!