Delfina, a pulsing burst of energy in the Mission, gets almost everything right...and for not that much money. Unless you do what we did, that is, and order a Anselma 1993 Barolo Monforte (still a bargain at just under $100). Not a great Barolo by any standard, but a good one, showing rough-hewn tannin and dried rose petals with a tight, sharp core of sun-baked but acidic red cherries. With Delfina's meltingly delicious Tuscan pork ribs, it was a killer.
A word of advice, though: the buttermilk panna cotta with candied kumquats is disappointing.