30 August 2006

TN: Barth and parcel

Barth 2004 Riesling Rebgarten (Alsace) – Ripe, crystallized peach and pear confiture with quartz-like minerality, lemon verbena tea and a spicy, rich sweetness. Everything rushes to a climax on the midpalate, leaving a finish that’s a good deal less sugary, but also fairly wan in comparison to the wine that precedes it. I don’t know that it tastes much like riesling, though, and while it’s loud, it lacks spine. (8/06)

Reports on the web indicate that this wine underwent malolactic, which is unusual (and usually deliberately avoided) for Alsatian riesling. The attenuated, nerve-reduced character is something I associate with the few companion examples I’ve tasted. As for the site, it’s near Bennwihr, generally east-facing and consists of multiple soil types. Alcohol: 13%. Closure: cork. Importer: Vineyard Research.

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