TN: Brandlin wash

Franus 1999 Zinfandel Brandlin (Mount Veeder) – Quince pie and coal dust. Still quite structured, with hints of dried leaves and suggestions of toasted blackberry liqueur, plus a forcefully whispered notion of acidity. This it maturing nicely, and far better than it was in its youth.

A true old-vine zin (the vines were planted in the twenties) from an extreme terroir that's often derided for producing undrinkably structured cabs. Young zins from this property are not much fun, but they do have the structure and stuffing to age, and while Franus does dabble in wood to the detriment of the wine, there's so much goodness inherent in the fruit that it can outlast tomfoolery in the cellar. Alcohol: 14.8%. Closure: cork. Web: http://www.peterfranus.com/.