TN: Less than a Jackson

Kendall-Jackson 2003 Chardonnay “Vintner’s Reserve” (California) – As inoffensive as a wine can be: rote stone fruit and citrus, almost lighter than air, with vague sweetness and an utter lack of character or meaning. This is almost a work of mad genius in its predictability and inoffensiveness. But it’s still no cure for narcolepsy. (3/07)